March 11th

March 11, 2014

Today we packed our bags and got into the very tightly packed bus to go to our host village. We couldn’t go there directly however, as us Americans needed to get one very vital piece of our culture we can’t go without- toilet paper. We stopped for only an hour in Lilongwe, which was actually more exciting than you might think. After spending a week at MIM where we weren’t allowed to really leave campus, it felt like we were stepping on real Malawian soil for the first time. Looking forward knowing we had just said goodbye to last toilet, shower, and internet access for 9 weeks and we couldn’t be more excited. After picking up toilet paper and a quick trip to an ice cream store, we were loaded back on the bus. Malawian countryside is so fascinating. It feels like home in such a weird way. Right now we are coming up on harvest season which means 6-7 ft. corn is everywhere! Not too different from Iowa in August. However if you look closer, you can see all the things that remind me I am in Africa. Squash (especially pumpkins) are grown between the corn stalks, with rows of potatoes in the middle. Shadows from the nearby mountains with their beautiful rock outcrops cover the corn at dusk. The corn will all of a sudden be replaced with fields of tobacco which is Malawi’s number one cash crop. Not to mention the people you see in the fields using hoes to remove the weeds or to build up the potatoes ridges. No tractors in sight. As we were driving we would pass women carrying loads of rice or water on their heads, with a child or two strapped to her back. We passed trucks filled way beyond their capacity with young men perched precariously on top. So many people would stop to watch the bus full of Americans drive by and smile and wave. We drove for about two hours until we pulled onto a dirt road following the sign that said Kasungu Wildlife Reserve. We passed the largest house I’ve seen here in Africa. A mansion home that belonged to Malawi’s first president, which since his passing now sits empty- except for the servants who maintain the place. Every child we passed would begin to chase our bus, waving and yelling despite the dust we had just kicked up in their faces. After about 10 minutes of dodging pot holes and children on the road, we finally made our last turn to pull up to a group of Malawian women singing, dancing and waving to us in their beautiful tchenges with such excitement on their faces. As we got off the bus, leaders from the villages came and shook each of our hands to welcome us. We sat down and watched as the women performed and danced traditional Malawian dances for us. Everyone was giddy with anticipation of what would happen next. After several dances the women took their spot under some trees and we all listened as the local village headmen spoke. The chief of Chicombwe was very excited to have us in his village. Back in 1965, when he was a young child he had a teacher who was a Peace Corps Volunteer.  He spoke at the 50^th anniversary for Peace Corps celebration here in Malawi last year about how the influence from this volunteer helped shape his life and how he is excited for the opportunity to teach new volunteers about Malawian culture.

After lots of clapping and speeches from many other people, we were assigned our family for the next 9 weeks. My name was the first called. I was paired with the Chingala family. When my new amayi’s (mother) name was called she came running up to me arms spread wide with a huge grin on her face. She only is about 5 feet tall and was wearing a bright orange head piece with an orange tchenge (traditional cloth skirt wrap thing) to match. We sat and watched as everyone else was assigned their families, cheering them on as they met each other for the first time. After everyone was paired up, all of our amayis took our luggage, plopped it on top of their heads and we were off to see our house. I live in a pretty nice house compared to some of my fellow PCT’s. My house is made out of brick and mud with a tin roof. It has four bedrooms, one large sitting area, a kitchen area, storage closet and a bathing room. The floors are cement, and there is glass in the windows. In the sitting area we have a couch, two large chairs, a table with four chairs and a china cabinet. Many other houses have dirt floors, a thatch roof and no contents within the house besides a bamboo sitting mat.

The very first night in my house I sat at our table and ate dinner as the whole family watched me with curiosity. I discovered quickly that my father and brother were the only ones who spoke very limited English. Because of this, we mostly ate in silence. I had nsima for the first time. I am not sure if it was nerves or because nsima has no taste, but I had to force myself to eat without gagging that first night. I quickly finished and excused myself to go to bed on my thin mattress placed on the concrete ground. I tucked in my mosquito net and fell asleep right away. It’s only the second day, and I am looking forward to getting to know my family. Let the adventure begin!